The proverbial wheel cannot turn full circle in every aspect. Time, tastes, fashions, substitutes, availability of raw material, just and equitable economic and political policies, new technology and the like are the chief reasons that affect anything worn or used by the people. Taxidermists and their industry once flourished when skins and hides of tigers, bears and other fur bearing animals were in great demand from the aristocratic and baronial sections of the society . Either unhindered hunting was rampant or there were no rules not to kill the wild animals for commercial purposes. Legislations, restrictions, plummeting number of wild animals, shrinking forests and urbanisation affected the very existence of that industry.
Pashmina, that soft, beautiful, tender but cold protecting wool roughly three times more insulating than sheep wool, had a flourishing industry mainly in respect of making of shawls which have the sheen, texture, the soft feel and elegance which the owners have pride to wear but envied by the ‘neighbours’. What is the fate of this cottage industry as on day, is the pertinent question especially that of Basohli in addition to the main ones in Kashmir valley. Drop in raw material, change of tastes of the people who prefer to opt for jackets, coats and other substitutes thus affecting the demand considerably, weavers with super dexterity have not generally been replaced by other nearest family members as spread of education has provided better career opportunities, increasing difficulties faced in obtaining the wool of Pashmina, marketing problems, high costs, maintenance of finished Pashmina products during hot and humid seasons can be cited the reasons for the Pashmina industry not doing overall well.
As in Shahtosh wool, the obtaining of the raw material is usually cruel, there is, however, no such thing with Pashmina as the wool is obtained by combing and not shearing but one goat of special breed known as Cashmere goat or Changthangi goat gives as much wool as half of a shawl only during one full season . Usually, at spine freezing temperatures, these goats have to be fed and looked after. They are found in Tibet, China, Myanmar, Bhutan, Nepal, Baltistan (PoK) and Ladakh region. Cashmere wool is most sought after fibres globally. Having said all in prelude to the Pashmina industry, the fact of the matter is that this industry has suffered primarily due to machine made shawls and imitations. Imitations are to this extent both in availability and looks that those many few who would have gone in for the original stuff too are lured to buy the unreal. The main structure of this industry is hand weaving on looms from the wool which is hand spun. That gives it exactly the shape of a family venture where generally men weave on handlooms from the wool spun by women in the family.
Hundreds of traditional Pashmina weavers have been compelled to switch over to other professions as cheap, looking similar and machine made shawls being available in markets have wreaked havoc with the traditional industry, be it in Kashmir or the worst affected Basholi. The neglect from the Government in promoting this industry to the extent of at least its reasonable revival is the bane of this industry in present form. However , short of a comprehensive state policy to save this industry and the livelihood of hundreds of weavers and their families, the State Government arranges the Pashmina wool from Ladakh region for supplying the same to the units producing Pashmina in the state. However, there is nearly step motherly treatment meted out to the unit holders of Basholi who virtually are at times starving for the raw material, the Pashmina wool. Most of the weavers are not financially that much sound so as to arrange the wool through their own resources. Since it is labour intensive industry , not only does it need governmental support in procuring the raw wool but laws made to provide a protection from imitations and fake Pashmina textures.
Moreover, Basholi, a backward area needs a preferred treatment looking to its economic background and comparative unsatisfactory condition of the Pashmina manufacturing units. Liberal financial assistance by way of working capital loans at concessional rates and arranging exhibitions and other marketing avenues to promote sale of the product would be a long term measure to help the Pashmina cottage industry. Much more than anything, it is the problem of marketing that plagues the unit holders here. Incentives and facilities provided to the units in Kashmir may be extended in full to the Basholi artisans too. It should be the endeavour of the state government to not let the Pashmina cottage industry, wherever it exists in the state, succumb to the existing problems faced by it.
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