Rajinder Chand Anthal
Lake Dera Top is the most sacred lake for the residents of Chenani and District Doda. Situated on a lofty hillock of village Sarar-Marothi ahead of Mantalai, this lake presents a commanding view over large hill tops of the area. From time immemorial people have been visiting this lake with great religious faith to seek blessings of Baba Purdwar, the chief deity of this mesmerizing lake. This lake is said to be the most favourite destination of Baba Purdwar, who is KUL-DEVTA of Chenani kings and all residents of erstwhile Chenani state. Pertinent to mention that Baba Purdwar belongs to the family of VASUKI NAG JI of Bhaderwah, under whose divine kingdom this area falls. Another important Temple at Dera is the Temple of Lord Shiva and Mata Shitla Barmani. Inside Shiv Temple, the Shivlingam installed looks that of ancient origin. Outside the temple SHIV GANAS and NANDI GAN stone carved idols have been installed. The black stone MURTI of Lord SHIVA is unique with a lot of images at the base and sides, which needs expert study. Other idols in the temple are also of ancient origin. Centuries of neglect and damage could not tamper with the goodness of these creations. At a short distance towards Marmat side of Doda, there is another sacred spot called ‘Doodlu’.
The convenient route to Dera Top lake is via Mantalai to Marothi by road and from Marothi to Dera hill top on a well built bridal path of four kilometres length. Other routes are from Kossar, Latti, and many more from Doda side. Whatever route we opt, we will experience nature at its best. Every upward step towards lake adds a new chapters of unforgettable scenic beauty in our minds. As we move up, we see astonishing waterfalls, dense forests, and grasslands all around.
Dera top lake is a fresh water lake amid miles long uneven evergreen grazing fields. Gujjars and local people inhabit this place during summer season for cattle grazing. In winter this area remains covered with snow. The best time to visit this lake is between May to October. The area of this lake is much larger than Sanasar lake. It is believed that the visitors will feel magical touch on the shores of this lake. Some mysteries associated with this lake remain unresolved as there is something divine and special in this lake which makes it different from others. All the hill tops of DERA have different names and they are said to be the favourite places of local YOGANS of fairly lands. On full moon nights these hill tops present silver painted view of these solitary valleys. Local people and those having knowledge of supernatural beings can classify these YOGANS and tell fearsome tales of their existence.
Inside the lake there is a carpet shaped floating ring of Barrian grass which is about ten feet wide with opening towards the temple side. The roots of Barrian grass plants are firmly stitched with each other to form a dense carpet like base which can carry any load. The shores of the lake are about ten feet away from this floating Barrian grass carpet ring. Inside the Barrian ring, there is deep dark water of the lake, which nobody can swim across. Usually the opening of this Barrian ring remains towards temple, but on the day of the Mela, it changes direction. If it moves towards east, the villages situated on eastern side will get prosperity and likewise.
Usually the lake is visited throughout the year, but a big MELA is held at DERA TOP lake on the 3rd Sunday of SAWAN month every year. Thousands of people participate in this Mela to seek blessing of Baba Purdwar and SHIV Ji Maharaj. Hundreds of people reach carpet shaped ring of Barrian Grass by swimming and walking on it. The people offer ROT to the lake deity and take Barrian Grass home as PARSHAD from this place. A largely attended Jattar and Kudd is performed at DERA by the devotees of Baba Purdwar on the day of the Mela, which is the most sacred event of the day. Many people sell bangles, sweets, and other Manyari items through the colourful tent shaped stalls fixed near the lake. Climate on the day of the Mela remains charming enough with dense mist appearing and disappearing every moment. Sometimes there is sweet sunshine and at other moment there is mist raining. Rural ladies and gents sit in small groups, distribute sweets, and sing folk songs GEETRU and BAKH etc.
Many myths and stories associated with this lake find their footprints in these hills. Once Raja Chenani was on a hunting trip towards Dera lake. Locals told the king that this lake have some enchanting powers. The King in his ego, stood before the lake and said that since both of us are kings, so show me some ‘chamatkar’. The sky was blue on that day and lake was calm. Suddenly there was disturbance in lake water with strong wind blowing all around. The soldiers and locals accompanying the king fell down and became unconscious. Only the king could remain standing with his will power. In this frightening atmosphere, a seven headed serpent appeared from the lake and stood fuming towards the king. The king bowed down and threw his golden ring towards the serpent and prayed. After this ‘Chamatkar’ the lake became normal. The fainted men stood up. The king returned without hunting and told about this chamatkar to the public. After travelling downward a distance of some kilometres, the king felt thirsty and sat near a water spring to drink water. As he extended his hands towards NADDA, a golden ring fell on the palms of the king. It was the same ring which the king had thrown in Dera Lake. Everybody was surprised on this chamatkar. Later a ‘Bowli’ was constructed there which exists till today known as ‘RAJA KI BOWLI.’
The second story is regarding strange oath of some Raja of Chenani which has its impact till date over a vast population of Anthal Rajputs. Due to some reasons, the elder son of Raja called ‘TIKKA’ passed away and the second son ‘DUTHAIN’ was crowned as a king. This was worrisome situation for the Royal family. Upon this the king took strange oath in the name of deity of Dera Talab by saying that if the Lake deity restores crown of Chenani to the Tikka of Chenani in future, the king will reach Dera bare footed from Chenani and he will sacrifice one male sheep (BHAIDU) on each step and will offer handful of SUCHEY MOTI stepwise to the Lake deity. It is said that the Lake deity and Baba Purdwar blessed the Raja with VARDAN that Tikka will survive to become King from now.
It is said that the Raja was capable to fulfil this strange oath, but neither he nor his successors did it. Seeing that it is a difficult task, the king declared that his family will not visit Dera Lake till the time the oath is fulfilled and the Anthal ladies will not eat meat of ‘Bhaidu’ and ‘Mass ki Dal’ in future. The Anthal ladies are acting as per the oath till now, although it is strange and practically difficult one, but for the sake of safety of their elder sons, the mothers do this sacrifice which is reality of the day.
The third story is about a Gujjar who used to come to Dera every year for cattle grazing. Once out of ego, he challenged the magical powers of Lake Dera Top. His buffaloes were grazing nearby the lake. Suddenly all the buffaloes marched towards the Lake as if they were going for drinking water. The Gujjar was looking at all this. The buffaloes entered the lake one by one and disappeared in the lake. The Gujjar started crying loudly. Many people gathered there. Elders advised him to leave his ego and pray for his buffaloes from the lake. He realised his mistake and prayed to forgive him. To the great surprise of everybody, the buffaloes of this Gujjar appeared collectively from other side of lake. From that day the Gujjars visiting Dera Top during summer offer ‘ROT’ to the lake with great respect. Pt. Om Parkash is the Pujari of Devasthan at Dera Top Lake. He has initiated a lot of developmental works at lake and temple there. Master Joginder Singh Katoch is the organiser of Langer and Bhajan Jagran during famous Mela of Dera.
Likewise there are many tales of magical events concerning this lake. Elders say that from very early times, kings of Chenani state remained associated with this lake, which led to the formation of their largest single dynasty rule till 1947-48 on the name of Lord Shiva. Lake deity is believed to be the protectorate of crops and livestock of this area leading to the prosperity of its people.
There is urgent need to protect this lake, the Barrian grass is extending everywhere and soil erosion from nearby areas is filling the lake with mud. The Barrian grass silt and mud should be removed from this beautiful lake to restore its glory. Government should promote tourism potential of this lake, besides streamlining religious pilgrimage as per rituals in practice from the centuries.
(The author is former Zonal Education Officer, Chenani)
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